I think it's a parks I got like almost 2 years ago now. You can say it. I'm kind of late on my builds. That one has been my unicorn a long time (thanks you Rob from Genesis Custom Saber for showcasing yours, back in the day).
That version is probably different to the recent ones with the korbanth run, or at least, the core tube was already removed and I had a 1" space in there.
I think Acerocket made the led holder for that one.
Specs :
- CFV5 "boosted edition" ( detailed in this tutorial)
- 2x16340 (AW)
- LEDengin RGGB (that's what I have on the bench right now, I won't buy more leds before completing a few projects first)
- I'm going to try some interesting combinations of (G+B) // (G) (see further for details about that hack)
- Flash on Clash. If combination above works, it will be the red die. Not sure if I'll like the color but I can still change the LEDengin configuration later.
- Activator under the red thumbscrew
- 1" blade (ultra edge)
- rumbling motor with speed fine tune (multiturn pot)
I found out that the ID of the saber was a bit more than 1". Since I don't plan to use more of my ultraedge tubes in the future (some I've sold on the website recently) and since they are 1"++,
perfect => a great chassis.
testing placement of parts. CF remains accessible in the pommel (my favorite).
Chassis is a full "slide out"
activator switch glue with... activated cyanoacrylate glue (I LOVE that thing)
fitting all together. Trying to have the wiring very clean and sleek.
Details of the wiring of the PEx.
no blinkie on this one, I wanted to have it canon (or as close as possible). Well, maybe a blinkie on the chassis, just to check the if the saber is in idle mode or not.
[...]
Chassis finished. Lined up all the wires. Came out nice.
Ledengin RGGB is wired with 2 green in //. The Blue is also in // with the 2 others, but with a heel/sole resistor to limit its current, tuned just to get a slightly cyan color but most the current is going in the 2 green. CF is setup on 1.8A, matching more or less a 2.5C discharge rate, which should work with those AW batteries. Runtime isn't a concern on that saber, it's just for showcasing.
I tried several configurations for the dice, and with weak batteries like the 16340, voltage never stay high enough to have 2 dice in serie. So rather than having a really under powered serial pair I have about 850 mA in each green die which is pretty ok IMO. Not today that I'll overdrive a ledengin with some 16340 anyway.
The FoC is wired on the red, 350 mA only for this little one, in order to save the batteries from a major drain. I also added some blue to the blade so that the FoC is "quite white" and not just reddish, which happens when the blue isn't there obviously since W = R+G+B (d'ho).
Arkai's 45° goodness stand... Slightly modded to put a plaque I got from Yoda with the saber (label is wrong since it's a V5 inside but I don't care)
un-screwing a bit the covertec and rotating the sleeve reveals the invisible speaker vents.
That saber isn't loud at all but still, sound is there and it's pretty accurate.
Aux switch, the screw right behind holds the little plate on which the switch is mounted.
Invisible recharge port (1.3mm) and full access to the µSD card.
